Banares: The Oldest living city, where time stands still...

(Morning- Assi Ghat)

The sun is yet to rise. At the Assi ghat, the Ganga flows gently, carrying the filth of the city-from wilted flowers to polythene bags. As the unmistakable voice of M.S. Subbulakshmi wakes up the countless gods in the city, including the mighty Kashi Vishwanath, Varanasi rouses itself to life.

“Har har Mahadev” echoes loudly all over the city; but Varanasi, or Banaras, or Kashi, is home not just to Shiva or the Hindi-speaking natives. There are a few Tamilians, some Gujaratis, Punjabis and Bengalis, and a lot more Biharis. “You will find names typical to every part of India in the voters' list of Varanasi, and they have been living here for more than 200 years,” says Rajkumar Yadav, a former member of the Varanasi Municipal Corporation.

Sonapura is home to the Tamilians, and has a Kamakotishwar temple and a Kartikeya temple. Bengali tola is a mini Bengal, complete with a Kalibari. The chowk in the heart of the city, which has a gurdwara nearby, is where the Punjabis live. Langwa, near Banaras Hindu University, has a huge population of Biharis. And Chowkhamba, with its Shreenath Gopal Rai temple, is where the Gujaratis live.

Time stands still in Varanasi, which is said to be the world's oldest living city. And without any doubt, it is a place where heritage is alive, culture is plural and life almost cosmopolitan. And yes, there are the Muslims who weave the Banarasi saris. Anyone who wins the Lok Sabha constituency of Varanasi by a decent margin can proudly claim to represent India.

              

              Varanasi- Riverside (Dasashwamedh Ghat)

The oldest city in India, and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, is frenetic and intense, colorful and chaotic. It's also an exhilarating and captivating place to visit once you get past the initial culture shock. Also known as Benares and Kashi, Varanasi is famed for its ‘ghats’, giant steps leading down to the river, where Hindu pilgrims come to cleanse their souls of sin in the waters of the River Ganges. Hindus believe that Varanasi is an auspicious place to die - dying and being cremated here offers moksha, liberation from the endless cycle of rebirth. These rituals of cleansing and cremation take place in full view on the riverbank.

Varanasi’s old city stretches back from the Ganges to a pedestrianized maze of alleys, or 'gallis'. Although claustrophobic and crowded, this is the most interesting area of the city. The embankment is lined with almost 100 ghats, with central Dasashwamedh Ghat being the busiest.

The city is known for being an auspicious place to die, but still has a beating heart of its own. It is where physical and spiritual worlds beautifully combine. River Ganges here is the river of salvation, which offers Moksha or liberation from the cycle of birth and death.

This magical Indian destination will captivate you with its Ghats and endless lines of Sadhus and Saints. 

(Sadhu- an Indian holy man).

 

Here is a list of some of the best things to do when in Varanasi.

1. Morning Boat-ride in Ganges River: boat rides during the dawn is perhaps one of the best things to do in Varanasi. The ride along Ganges River offers the quintessential Varanasi experience. It takes one through different Ghats and former palaces situated close to the banks of Ganges, giving a panoramic view of this River and the region.

The best time to enjoy boat ride of the Ganges River is from 5:30 AM to 8 AM. This is when the color and clamor of the place will enthrall you. Travelers will be surprised to see that the city is awake and cheery even during 5 in the morning.Morning experience of the boat ride will leave an indelible imprint on your heart, especially because you will get to see the faith that people have in River Ganges. During the ride, don’t be surprised to see Sadhus and pilgrims bathing and performing prayers in front of you. This entire ride will unfold the religious significance of Varanasi and why River Ganges is revered all over the world!

Mostly, an hour long boat ride is ideal to give the traveler a taste of what this city has to offer. It usually starts from Dasashwamedh Ghat, goes to the Harishchandra Ghat and then back. In the evening, you can see how women from all over the world light flower candles and set it adrift in water. You can also opt for the Ganga Aarti ceremony at the Dasashwamedh Ghat. Travelers can access boats from Manmandir area.

                                                           (Early morning boat-ride)

2. Take a Holy dip in Ganges: River Ganges is considered to be the holiest Hindu River. Legends suggest that taking a dip in the holy waters here will offer salvation of sins and purification of the soul. In fact, the religious texts of Hinduism widely suggest that one should get a salvation by bathing in River Ganges to purify all sins accumulated in current or previous births.

Taking a dip or bathing in the holy waters of Ganges is one of the major things to do in Varanasi. The river’s personification is Ganga, the elder sister of Goddess Parvati, wife of Lord Shiva.  

3. Go for a Sightseeing Tour of Sarnath: Just a few kilometers away from Varanasi, is the sleepy village of Singhpur. While Varanasi is a Hindu religious center, Singhpur’s Sarnath is a Buddhist center of religion. Visit to this village, which is known for its Buddhist monuments, is one of the best things to do in Varanasi and nearby areas. Sarnath is also referred to a deer park, which is the place where Gautama Buddha first came and taught about the concept of Dharma.

This is where Buddhist Sangha received enlightenment. It is located in Singhpur, known as the birthplace of Shreyansanath, the eleventh Tirthankara in Jainism. Sarnath is certainly one of the best places near Varanasi, especially for those who are keen to learn more about history and religion in India.

It is where Emperor Ashoka erected a number of stupas and monuments for spreading Buddhism. The crumbling stupas here are a house of relics, manuscripts and fascinating inscriptions that can teach one a lot of Indian history, development of Buddhism and provide alternative theories such as Aliens and how they visited the earth.A tour to Sarnath is usually for half a day and starts early in the morning. During the morning, one can revel in the beauty of Chaukhandi Stupa, which is one of the main stupas built by Ashoka after he converted into Buddhism.

Another main attraction is the Dhammek Stupa, made from a blend of stone and bricks. The stupa is 28 meters in diameter and has a height of 43.6 meters. Alternate theorist and historians from other countries suggest that the dome of this stupa indirectly refers to aliens and UFOs.


The intricate floral carvings of this stupa are reflective of early Gupta style of architecture.  The other highlight of Sarnath is Mulagandha Kuti Vihar, which is a monument that showcases beautiful frescoes made a Japanese painter. This area is a rich repository of the culture and heritage of Buddhism. To gain more insight into Buddhism and to be enthralled by this history of this place, you can visit Sarnath Museum. It is said to be the home of large number of relics that were excavated from Sarnath. The lion capital of Ashoka Pillar, which features on Indian emblem, is also showcased here.

                                                                                                                                                                                   

(Dhammek Stupa, Sarnath)

4. Stroll Along the Ghats  : Exploring the Ghats is one of the best things to do in Varanasi. The city has almost a hundred Ghats, the steps of each leading the banks of River Ganges. These are bathing Ghats, praying Ghats and cremation sites for Hindus from all over the world. It makes them alluring and enthralling for a traveler as it is associated with some legend or mythologies.

                          (Lalita Ghat, Varanasi)

The privately owned ones here are known for morning boat rides which provide impeccable, panoramic views of the place. Some of the major Ghats that one can visit during their trip to Varanasi includes the Mata Anandamai Ghat, Assi Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat, Munshi Ghat, Raj Ghat, Dasashwamedh Ghat, Scindia Ghat and Raj Ghat. Of these, Dasashwamedh Ghat is perhaps the most popular. It is located close to Vishwanath Temple and therefore, its spectacular appearance makes it an enchanting place to visit in Varanasi. The Ghat is associated with two Hindu mythologies.

                            

One of these suggests that this where Lord Brahma welcomed Lord Shiva. The other states the place where Lord Brahma sacrificed ten horses during a Yajna. Every day, saints here perform Worship to Fire or Agni Pooja, which is a charismatic and spectacular event to watch.

Apart from this, Lalita Ghat is a destination worth visiting. Built by King of Nepal, it is the site of Keshav Temple and a number of local festivals are organized at this place. For cremating electrically, a crematorium has been set in Harishchandra Ghat. 

                                                

                                    (Open Crematorium at Harishchandra Ghat)

                                                     

5. Explore Vishwanath Temple: Best known for its Ghats and Temples, a visit to Varanasi is incomplete without exploring the temples of this city. There is one on almost every road and road crossing in Varanasi. While the small temples are used for daily local prayers and rituals, larger ones are associated with Hindu history and mythology. These places of worships are regularly visited by travellers in large numbers. They also reflect the architecture in India.

The most popular temple here is the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Also called the Golden Temple, this place of interest was built in 1780 by Queen Ahilyabai Holker of Indore. The Vishwanath or the Jyotirlinga of Lord Shiva is enshrined in here. The place of worship is also popular because Sikh Maharaja Ranjit Singh donated huge amounts of gold. Using the same gold, two domes of temple were constructed.

7. Witness Ganga Aarti: Watching Evening Aarti Ceremony is certainly once in a lifetime experience. The spectacular event must be viewed from the Dasashwamedh Ghat, where beautiful rituals unfold themselves in front of your eyes. Brass lamps of large sizes are used during this event, which is accompanied by chants and crowds of people waiting to pray.

                (Ganga Aarti at Dasashwamedh Ghat)

Visit at least an hour before the Aarti if you want to gather the experience at its best. At this time, you can witness how five elevated planks are placed at the edge of the steps of the Ghats and brass lamps are cleaned and readied for the occasion.It is also interesting to watch how priests don identical dhotis and kurta for prayer and Aarti ceremony. Those who wish to click pictures from their cameras should visit the Ghats in evening boats, as this will allow one to easily capture everything in attention. As soon as the lamps are lit, spectacular images are formed. The night sky shines with radiance of these lamps while incense sticks will fill the atmosphere with aroma of different types. The Aarti ceremony is performed every night and a 45 minute ritual is held for the same. The usual timing of the Ganga Aarti are from 6:30 to 7:30 in the evening.

7.Visit the Historical Ramnagar Fort:  It is one of the best places to see on a monotonous afternoon. The fortification on the eastern bank of River Ganges is known for its cream colored Chunar Sandstone, which gives it a strong, sophisticated appearance.

                     (Entrance: Ramnagar Fort) 

Although, it isn't as old as usual forts in the country, it is popular around the world for its strong, lavish appearance. The fascinating structure is one of the best places for tourists and history buffs. Built by Raja Balwant Singh in 1750, this castle is the best representation of Mughal style of architecture. It features carved balconies, pavilions and open courtyards, which is associated with summer resorts, palaces and forts of Mughal. The fort has been the home of the Maharaja and then his children. Currently, Anant Narayan Singh is the resident and occupies it despite the abolishing of Royal title in 1971.

                                   

The fort is often used for outdoor shooting locations of various films and has a museum, which showcases unusual and rare collection of vintage cars from America along with ivory work, sedan chairs, golden and silver palanquins in the shape of lotus and elephant saddles made of beautiful designs. It also features an armory hall that displays swords and guns from around the world.

8. Shopping in Varanasi's Local Market: Shopping in Varanasi is the best thing to do on a free afternoon or evening. The city is widely famous for its silk saris and ornate jewels. Visit the local market to buy different items of interest. The intricate pattern of floral designs and elaborate zari or thread work saris must be purchased from this beautiful place.

                     (Shopping Alleys, Varanasi)

The local market here is filled with illustrious fine silk and apart from saris, one can buy shawls, carpets, stone inlay work, bangles and idols of Hindu or Buddhist deities. The main shopping areas to explore in this city include Vishwanath Lane, Thatheri Bazaar and Godowalia chowk.


9. Taste Street Food: Varanasi is also known for awesome street food. Try out Khasta kachauri and authentic Banarasi Launglatta at Kachauri Gali near Bangali tola.

 After the day’s walk along the river, you may walk down to Blue Lassi in Kachauri Gali on the way to Bangali tola to cool off with a glass full of Thandai – a delicious and energizing mixture of milk, almond, sugar and pistachios.

(Kachauri Gali, Bangali tola)

 The shop also serves Thandai with Bhang (Cannabis), but this should be restricted to a Banarasi or a seasoned bhang addict. A warning though - if you are planning to indulge, it would probably be advisable to do so in the relative safety of your hotel room, if not don't forget to indulge yourself in delicious Chaats at Keshav Chaat Corner at Godwalia Crossing to avoid the not so good after taste. The ghats and backstreets are hard enough to navigate even without the effects of bhang, especially at night. The hangover could be terrible. 

(Delicacies offered at Keshav Chaat Bhandar)

Taste Banarasi Paan, available almost at every corner in Benaras. If possible start your morning stroll along the Ghats with a cup of chai at Raju’s Tea Shop on Assi Ghat. I will come with a detailed article on street food in Varanasi soon.

                      

             

  

10. Avoid being scammed :

Rickshaw-wallah scams: your driver may say your hotel has burned down or the road is closed but they know another hotel – this just means they want commission. Refuse to pay unless they take you to your destination - and check whether you really are at your destination before getting out.

Boatmen: bargain hard, and before you board check you know how much you’ll be paying and how long the ride will take – boatmen have been known to stop halfway along the river saying you've only paid for 30 minutes and you need to pay more to continue.

Burning ghats: if watching cremations at Manikarnika Ghat you may be approached by men claiming they are from hospices and need money for expensive wood to cremate the poor – don’t believe them. If you refuse to pay, be prepared to receive ‘karmic’ emotional blackmail – just ignore it.

General hassle: you’ll constantly be approached by people asking “massage, sir/madam?”, “boat-ride?’ or “ear clean?”. Although harmless, this can quickly become annoying. Smile, say no firmly, and continue walking (unless you do want an ear clean). Keeping calm is the only way to cope - just accept this is the culture and embrace the chaos that is Varanasi!.

Patachitra- A glimpse on an age old Folk Art.

Art refers to the creative expression of an artist which has attracted people in all ages and all times. Folk art is a branch of art,which has verbally transmitted and developed in folk-groups and in folk societies. In India, folk art generally formed by the illiterate or semi illiterate village people. It is true that they were very poor in economic condition and did not had any modern technological concept of art but the general concept existed in their blood. Particularly in case of Patachitra, we may observe that this type of folk art is ethnic in nature and it is very colorful, it also bears traditional and cultural element of country's rich heritage.

                   (A traditional Kalighat Patachitra)

Patachitra or Scroll Painting comes from the eastern part of India mainly from the states of West Bengal,Jharkhand and Orissa. The Bengali scroll tradition is an ancient one, featuring single image paintings or long vertical multi-paneled scrolls known as 'patas' (paintings) or'jorana patas' (scroll paintings). Painted jorano patas of rural Bengal are one of the few genuine narrative pictorial folk art which is linked with performance which has survived down to the present century.In Bengali, 'Pat' means 'picture' and 'Patua' or 'Chitrakar' means 'Painter'. The Patua is a kind of minstrel, religious preachers who employ these paintings as means to propagate their religion. It was also an important device through which both oral and written epics are narrated. He goes from village to village, carrying these scrolls from door to door, and  depending on people’s request, particular stories would be narrated for a small fee, either in cash or kind.

    (An Artisan with his scroll).          


According to shape and size there are two types of Patachitra were found. These are Squre Pata or Chouko Pata and Rolling Pata or Jarhano Pata. Squre Pata or Chouko Pata is a card shaped Pata, made on the basis of single impression, which has no rolling portion.This type of Pata have been making from post card size to various big sizes. Post card sized Patas are available at the cost of Rs.10. And other type of Chouko Patas price rate depended on the basis of size and quality. And the other type of Pata, named Jorhano Pata or rolling Pata has known in various name, such as Dighal Pata, 
Latai Pata etc. This type of Patachitra had made by the hard work and devotion of Patua. Generally one month to ten month has required for one Rolling Pata, which is depended on how the Pata is long. In length one rolling Pata may be formed within 10 feet to 40 feet. This type of Pata based on dramatic story, which had described by the Patua in his song and in the making of images Patuas used variety of colours.

 

According to subject matter there are many types of Patachitras were found, such as Chakshudan Pata, Jama Pata, Saheb Pata, Kalighata Pata, Gaji Pata, Satyapirer Pata, Pabuji Pata etc. And in general context of view Patachitra may be devided into six classes. Such as General, Political, Historical, 
Religious, social and environmental. Now here is some example, classification and description on various Pata, as follows— General Pata : All type of single image of man or woman or any kind of general art figure Social Pata : Palse Polio Avijan, eradiction of Malaria, Communal harmony, Terrible Sunami,explosion in Mumbai,Tree Plantation, AIDS Awareness, Awareness on Human Rights, persecution of woman, earthquake, protest to intoxication etc.

  ( Mythological Pata)                              

Mythological Pata: Raban Badha, Sita Haran, King Harishchandra, Krishnaleela, Durgaleela, Sabitree-Satyaban, Manasa Mangal, Chandee Mangal, Dharma Mangal,Annada Mangal etc.
Historical Pata : Second World War, Ajaad Hind Fouj and Netaji Subhas Basu , Atom bomb in Hirosima and Nagasaki, Destruction of Babri Masjid, Terrorist attack on the World Trade Centre(U.S.A.) ,Saheb Pata, Life of Vidyasagar, Life of Rabindranath Thakur, Life of Vivekananda etc.
Religious Pata: GajiPata, Satyapirer Pata, Jama Pata, Shakti Pata, Vaishnab Pata, Chaitanyaleela.

(Pata depicting Ramayana)

                      

In Patua societies we may find an advance sociological pattern and valuable cultural significance, which they maintained in their family structure from old age to modern age. They believe in peaceful living. They have no gender bias in their society. They also believed that they are son of the God Viswakarma. They followed some Hindu customs and also some Islam customs in their family tradition. But as artist they don’t believe in caste or race. 
They believe in human religion. They have no narrow attitude towards life and culture. They have been protecting world humanity by their artistic nature and creativity. So their Patachitra painting has a remarkable contribution to our civilization.

'Naya' is an important place of Folk-art Painting. It is a village of under Pingla Panchayet Samiti of the district of West Midnapore, West Bengal, India. 
It is known as ‘Pater Gram’. In every year there is an international festival, named ‘PATAMAYA’ arranged here by the help of European Union. 

I have visited this village and met with famous Patua Artist Gurupada Chitrakar, Who had been awarded by the ex-President of India (Dr. A.P.J.Abdul Kalam) as one of the best folk-artist of our country. 

I have known such important facts or things of Patachitra Painting from this very man.

  

  (Patua artist Shri Gurupada Chitrakar).

Old World Charm of the Chinese Whispers... A breakfast meal to remember!

It was around 6:00 A.M in the morning, A time of the day I am not familiar with. I stepped out of my apartment. It was clouded, it was grey.
Unshaven. Unbathed. Unfed. Red-eyed. I was nearly hoping for a text calling it all off.

But no, I could see my childhood friends 'Dadu' and 'Mal' as I call them waiting as eagerly. I have been an avid enthusiast about China, their Cuisine in particular since a long time now and i wanted to explore Kolkata's unique offerings.
A couple of nights back I had gone to eat at Tangra, a locality, often referred by locals as 'Chinatown'. And this time my long standing desire to checkout Tiretti Bazar, adjacent to the police headquarters "Lalbazar" and much heard oriental breakfast stalls.

Kolkata offers several interesting ways to start the day, but few as fascinating and delicious as breakfast at the Chinese market in the heart of the commercial district. For decades, this was where Kolkata’s large Chinese community lived and worked. Even though, from the 1960s, the old quarters were gradually razed to make way for office blocks and broader roads, for a few hours at dawn, the site reclaims its old identity as a traditional open-air market along the broad Sun Yat Sen Street.

                     

My first stop was a few plates of dumplings from this friendly man. I proceeded to order two plates of his dumplings, which in this part of the world are known as “momos.”  A dip in the hot sauce and I was pretty happy.
Even better than the steamed chicken dumplings were the deep fried pork dumplings! After a double round of dumplings, I proceeded on to order a bowl of soup filled with fish balls. Standing up, while resting my bowl of soup on a wobbly circular table, I thoroughly enjoyed my Chinese breakfast in the middle of always entertaining Kolkata.

   

Despite its unique ambience the only Chinese food market in India may soon sink into oblivion, along with the dwindling Chinese community in the city. Most senior hawkers are either dead or are too old and infirm to visit the market. And the young generation of 'Indian Chinese' is leaving India in hordes looking for greener pastures abroad.

The market was much more vibrant even a decade ago as witnessed by regulars. One could find areas like Bowbazar in central Kolkata and Tangra, in the city's eastern fringes, populated with the Chinese population. Tiretty bazaar, in fact, is the oldest Chinese hub, still called the Chinatown by many Kolkatans. The market can be considered a meeting place by the Chinese. "We gathere here not only to buy or sell, but also out of a fellow feeling for the community", a regular qoutes.

                                                                             
  Lids removed from towering, multi-tiered steamers release fragrant steam into the air and reveal neat dim sum made with pork, fish, and chicken, and large rounds of steamed bread stuffed with pork and chicken. We snack on the excellent dumplings and packed the saucer-sized soft bun for the street. A baksawallah or patty man, is selling his wares from the ancient tin trunk traditionally used to hawk around those flaky pastry envelopes stuffed with curried vegetables or chicken. Other Anglo-Indian treats beckon: a tray of crumb-fried egg chops and golden pantharas—deep-fried, meat-filled pancakes. 
Enterprising vendors are constantly tinkering with traditional products to adapt to changing tastes. On this visit, we discover chicken rolls/crepes stuffed with spring onion and chicken mince and rolled into long cigar shapes. Right next to the sealed packets of Chinese prawn wafers are freshly made “prawn wafers” and flat breads stuffed with shrimp. But not all the experiments are successful.






If you are a late riser then chances are that you may miss the delight as it starts at around 6am and by the time clock strikes 8 everything is finished.

Tiretta bazaar is in the Chhata Wallah Gully just beside Poddar court near Lal Bazaar police headquarters. This place is easily accessable from Howrah, Sealdah, esplanade Babughat bus stand etc.

The place is clean as compared to Tangra. The quality of food is also good. In China town there are some non-Chinese vendors also who sell these delicacies with equally good taste.


and yeah ... Do remember to take home some Prawn wafers/chips as a memorabilia.

Journey to the Ganga Sagar Mela!

This is not the story of Ganga Sagar Pilgrimage, it is about the place which lies in between . It is a Transit camp. Before starting for  Ganga Sagar, people stop over at this Transit camp situated near Outram Ghat in Kolkata . They come here every day, starting 4-5 days ahead of Makar Sankranti, where they stay for 1-2 days before heading towards Sagar Island.

  

Sadhus stay on one side of the camp and general people on the other. Can this place be treated as small Gangasagar Mela? Not really. But one can describe it as stage rehearsal before the final. A place where Sadhus and common people intermingle as one, enjoying the varied colours of life and host various events which make the Transit Camp an attractive proposition. The pictures here are trying to uphold the colours of ritual , pilgrimage and devotion while narrating an honest story of common people with their beliefs, conventions and varied shades of expression.

The whole place, overflowing with a deluge of Sadhus and smoke dust attracts common people from across the country who cook, feed, play, sip tea , pose for photographs, meet old dehati friends while portraying a sense of solidarity in diversity. As the day rumbles on, the place becomes immaterial while the journey gains importance with people trundling on amid a ravenous thirst for divinity.

   

(A sadhu, or Hindu holy man, smokes marijuana at a transit camp in Calcutta, India, Monday, Jan. 6, 2014. Pilgrims are arriving in the city before proceeding onward for an annual holy dip at Gangasagar, the confluence of Ganges River and Bay of Bengal, some 140 kilometer (87 miles) south of Calcutta, on the occasion of Makar Sankranti that falls on Jan. 14).