(Morning- Assi Ghat)
The sun is yet to rise. At the Assi ghat, the Ganga flows gently, carrying the filth of the city-from wilted flowers to polythene bags. As the unmistakable voice of M.S. Subbulakshmi wakes up the countless gods in the city, including the mighty Kashi Vishwanath, Varanasi rouses itself to life.
“Har har Mahadev” echoes loudly all over the city; but Varanasi, or Banaras, or Kashi, is home not just to Shiva or the Hindi-speaking natives. There are a few Tamilians, some Gujaratis, Punjabis and Bengalis, and a lot more Biharis. “You will find names typical to every part of India in the voters' list of Varanasi, and they have been living here for more than 200 years,” says Rajkumar Yadav, a former member of the Varanasi Municipal Corporation.
Sonapura is home to the Tamilians, and has a Kamakotishwar temple and a Kartikeya temple. Bengali tola is a mini Bengal, complete with a Kalibari. The chowk in the heart of the city, which has a gurdwara nearby, is where the Punjabis live. Langwa, near Banaras Hindu University, has a huge population of Biharis. And Chowkhamba, with its Shreenath Gopal Rai temple, is where the Gujaratis live.
Time stands still in Varanasi, which is said to be the world's oldest living city. And without any doubt, it is a place where heritage is alive, culture is plural and life almost cosmopolitan. And yes, there are the Muslims who weave the Banarasi saris. Anyone who wins the Lok Sabha constituency of Varanasi by a decent margin can proudly claim to represent India.
Varanasi- Riverside (Dasashwamedh Ghat)
The oldest city in India, and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, is frenetic and intense, colorful and chaotic. It's also an exhilarating and captivating place to visit once you get past the initial culture shock. Also known as Benares and Kashi, Varanasi is famed for its ‘ghats’, giant steps leading down to the river, where Hindu pilgrims come to cleanse their souls of sin in the waters of the River Ganges. Hindus believe that Varanasi is an auspicious place to die - dying and being cremated here offers moksha, liberation from the endless cycle of rebirth. These rituals of cleansing and cremation take place in full view on the riverbank.
Varanasi’s old city stretches back from the Ganges to a pedestrianized maze of alleys, or 'gallis'. Although claustrophobic and crowded, this is the most interesting area of the city. The embankment is lined with almost 100 ghats, with central Dasashwamedh Ghat being the busiest.
This magical Indian destination will captivate you with its Ghats and endless lines of Sadhus and Saints.
(Sadhu- an Indian holy man).
Here is a list of some of the best things to do when in Varanasi.
1. Morning Boat-ride in Ganges River: boat rides during the dawn is perhaps one of the best things to do in Varanasi. The ride along Ganges River offers the quintessential Varanasi experience. It takes one through different Ghats and former palaces situated close to the banks of Ganges, giving a panoramic view of this River and the region.
The best time to enjoy boat ride of the Ganges River is from 5:30 AM to 8 AM. This is when the color and clamor of the place will enthrall you. Travelers will be surprised to see that the city is awake and cheery even during 5 in the morning.Morning experience of the boat ride will leave an indelible imprint on your heart, especially because you will get to see the faith that people have in River Ganges. During the ride, don’t be surprised to see Sadhus and pilgrims bathing and performing prayers in front of you. This entire ride will unfold the religious significance of Varanasi and why River Ganges is revered all over the world!
Mostly, an hour long boat ride is ideal to give the traveler a taste of what this city has to offer. It usually starts from Dasashwamedh Ghat, goes to the Harishchandra Ghat and then back. In the evening, you can see how women from all over the world light flower candles and set it adrift in water. You can also opt for the Ganga Aarti ceremony at the Dasashwamedh Ghat. Travelers can access boats from Manmandir area.
(Early morning boat-ride)
2. Take a Holy dip in Ganges: River Ganges is considered to be the holiest Hindu River. Legends suggest that taking a dip in the holy waters here will offer salvation of sins and purification of the soul. In fact, the religious texts of Hinduism widely suggest that one should get a salvation by bathing in River Ganges to purify all sins accumulated in current or previous births.
Taking a dip or bathing in the holy waters of Ganges is one of the major things to do in Varanasi. The river’s personification is Ganga, the elder sister of Goddess Parvati, wife of Lord Shiva.
3. Go for a Sightseeing Tour of Sarnath: Just a few kilometers away from Varanasi, is the sleepy village of Singhpur. While Varanasi is a Hindu religious center, Singhpur’s Sarnath is a Buddhist center of religion. Visit to this village, which is known for its Buddhist monuments, is one of the best things to do in Varanasi and nearby areas. Sarnath is also referred to a deer park, which is the place where Gautama Buddha first came and taught about the concept of Dharma.
This is where Buddhist Sangha received enlightenment. It is located in Singhpur, known as the birthplace of Shreyansanath, the eleventh Tirthankara in Jainism. Sarnath is certainly one of the best places near Varanasi, especially for those who are keen to learn more about history and religion in India.
It is where Emperor Ashoka erected a number of stupas and monuments for spreading Buddhism. The crumbling stupas here are a house of relics, manuscripts and fascinating inscriptions that can teach one a lot of Indian history, development of Buddhism and provide alternative theories such as Aliens and how they visited the earth.A tour to Sarnath is usually for half a day and starts early in the morning. During the morning, one can revel in the beauty of Chaukhandi Stupa, which is one of the main stupas built by Ashoka after he converted into Buddhism.
Another main attraction is the Dhammek Stupa, made from a blend of stone and bricks. The stupa is 28 meters in diameter and has a height of 43.6 meters. Alternate theorist and historians from other countries suggest that the dome of this stupa indirectly refers to aliens and UFOs.
The intricate floral carvings of this stupa are reflective of early Gupta style of architecture. The other highlight of Sarnath is Mulagandha Kuti Vihar, which is a monument that showcases beautiful frescoes made a Japanese painter. This area is a rich repository of the culture and heritage of Buddhism. To gain more insight into Buddhism and to be enthralled by this history of this place, you can visit Sarnath Museum. It is said to be the home of large number of relics that were excavated from Sarnath. The lion capital of Ashoka Pillar, which features on Indian emblem, is also showcased here.
(Dhammek Stupa, Sarnath)
4. Stroll Along the Ghats : Exploring the Ghats is one of the best things to do in Varanasi. The city has almost a hundred Ghats, the steps of each leading the banks of River Ganges. These are bathing Ghats, praying Ghats and cremation sites for Hindus from all over the world. It makes them alluring and enthralling for a traveler as it is associated with some legend or mythologies.
(Lalita Ghat, Varanasi)
The privately owned ones here are known for morning boat rides which provide impeccable, panoramic views of the place. Some of the major Ghats that one can visit during their trip to Varanasi includes the Mata Anandamai Ghat, Assi Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat, Munshi Ghat, Raj Ghat, Dasashwamedh Ghat, Scindia Ghat and Raj Ghat. Of these, Dasashwamedh Ghat is perhaps the most popular. It is located close to Vishwanath Temple and therefore, its spectacular appearance makes it an enchanting place to visit in Varanasi. The Ghat is associated with two Hindu mythologies.
One of these suggests that this where Lord Brahma welcomed Lord Shiva. The other states the place where Lord Brahma sacrificed ten horses during a Yajna. Every day, saints here perform Worship to Fire or Agni Pooja, which is a charismatic and spectacular event to watch.
Apart from this, Lalita Ghat is a destination worth visiting. Built by King of Nepal, it is the site of Keshav Temple and a number of local festivals are organized at this place. For cremating electrically, a crematorium has been set in Harishchandra Ghat.
(Open Crematorium at Harishchandra Ghat)
5. Explore Vishwanath Temple: Best known for its Ghats and Temples, a visit to Varanasi is incomplete without exploring the temples of this city. There is one on almost every road and road crossing in Varanasi. While the small temples are used for daily local prayers and rituals, larger ones are associated with Hindu history and mythology. These places of worships are regularly visited by travellers in large numbers. They also reflect the architecture in India.
The most popular temple here is the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Also called the Golden Temple, this place of interest was built in 1780 by Queen Ahilyabai Holker of Indore. The Vishwanath or the Jyotirlinga of Lord Shiva is enshrined in here. The place of worship is also popular because Sikh Maharaja Ranjit Singh donated huge amounts of gold. Using the same gold, two domes of temple were constructed.
7. Witness Ganga Aarti: Watching Evening Aarti Ceremony is certainly once in a lifetime experience. The spectacular event must be viewed from the Dasashwamedh Ghat, where beautiful rituals unfold themselves in front of your eyes. Brass lamps of large sizes are used during this event, which is accompanied by chants and crowds of people waiting to pray.
(Ganga Aarti at Dasashwamedh Ghat)
Visit at least an hour before the Aarti if you want to gather the experience at its best. At this time, you can witness how five elevated planks are placed at the edge of the steps of the Ghats and brass lamps are cleaned and readied for the occasion.It is also interesting to watch how priests don identical dhotis and kurta for prayer and Aarti ceremony. Those who wish to click pictures from their cameras should visit the Ghats in evening boats, as this will allow one to easily capture everything in attention. As soon as the lamps are lit, spectacular images are formed. The night sky shines with radiance of these lamps while incense sticks will fill the atmosphere with aroma of different types. The Aarti ceremony is performed every night and a 45 minute ritual is held for the same. The usual timing of the Ganga Aarti are from 6:30 to 7:30 in the evening.
7.Visit the Historical Ramnagar Fort: It is one of the best places to see on a monotonous afternoon. The fortification on the eastern bank of River Ganges is known for its cream colored Chunar Sandstone, which gives it a strong, sophisticated appearance.
(Entrance: Ramnagar Fort)
Although, it isn't as old as usual forts in the country, it is popular around the world for its strong, lavish appearance. The fascinating structure is one of the best places for tourists and history buffs. Built by Raja Balwant Singh in 1750, this castle is the best representation of Mughal style of architecture. It features carved balconies, pavilions and open courtyards, which is associated with summer resorts, palaces and forts of Mughal. The fort has been the home of the Maharaja and then his children. Currently, Anant Narayan Singh is the resident and occupies it despite the abolishing of Royal title in 1971.
The fort is often used for outdoor shooting locations of various films and has a museum, which showcases unusual and rare collection of vintage cars from America along with ivory work, sedan chairs, golden and silver palanquins in the shape of lotus and elephant saddles made of beautiful designs. It also features an armory hall that displays swords and guns from around the world.
8. Shopping in Varanasi's Local Market: Shopping in Varanasi is the best thing to do on a free afternoon or evening. The city is widely famous for its silk saris and ornate jewels. Visit the local market to buy different items of interest. The intricate pattern of floral designs and elaborate zari or thread work saris must be purchased from this beautiful place.
(Shopping Alleys, Varanasi)
The local market here is filled with illustrious fine silk and apart from saris, one can buy shawls, carpets, stone inlay work, bangles and idols of Hindu or Buddhist deities. The main shopping areas to explore in this city include Vishwanath Lane, Thatheri Bazaar and Godowalia chowk.
9. Taste Street Food: Varanasi is also known for awesome street food. Try out Khasta kachauri and authentic Banarasi Launglatta at Kachauri Gali near Bangali tola.
After the day’s walk along the river, you may walk down to Blue Lassi in Kachauri Gali on the way to Bangali tola to cool off with a glass full of Thandai – a delicious and energizing mixture of milk, almond, sugar and pistachios.
(Kachauri Gali, Bangali tola)
The shop also serves Thandai with Bhang (Cannabis), but this should be restricted to a Banarasi or a seasoned bhang addict. A warning though - if you are planning to indulge, it would probably be advisable to do so in the relative safety of your hotel room, if not don't forget to indulge yourself in delicious Chaats at Keshav Chaat Corner at Godwalia Crossing to avoid the not so good after taste. The ghats and backstreets are hard enough to navigate even without the effects of bhang, especially at night. The hangover could be terrible.
(Delicacies offered at Keshav Chaat Bhandar)
Taste Banarasi Paan, available almost at every corner in Benaras. If possible start your morning stroll along the Ghats with a cup of chai at Raju’s Tea Shop on Assi Ghat. I will come with a detailed article on street food in Varanasi soon.
10. Avoid being scammed :
Rickshaw-wallah scams: your driver may say your hotel has burned down or the road is closed but they know another hotel – this just means they want commission. Refuse to pay unless they take you to your destination - and check whether you really are at your destination before getting out.
Boatmen: bargain hard, and before you board check you know how much you’ll be paying and how long the ride will take – boatmen have been known to stop halfway along the river saying you've only paid for 30 minutes and you need to pay more to continue.
Burning ghats: if watching cremations at Manikarnika Ghat you may be approached by men claiming they are from hospices and need money for expensive wood to cremate the poor – don’t believe them. If you refuse to pay, be prepared to receive ‘karmic’ emotional blackmail – just ignore it.
General hassle: you’ll constantly be approached by people asking “massage, sir/madam?”, “boat-ride?’ or “ear clean?”. Although harmless, this can quickly become annoying. Smile, say no firmly, and continue walking (unless you do want an ear clean). Keeping calm is the only way to cope - just accept this is the culture and embrace the chaos that is Varanasi!.
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